Lately, I’ve been seeing a lot of sewists make their own underwear, and it’s really inspiring me-however there’s one detail that I don’t want to incorporate in my me-made underwear: elastic.
If you’ve ever made underwear earlier than, you probably know that many ending methods for the legholes and waistline embody elastic, both fold-over elastic, picot, or even braided elastic encased in fabric. I don’t know about you, but none of my ready-to-wear underwear have elastic in the legs-and sometimes they don’t in the waist both. This is the kind of underwear I like best.
So, the place does this depart me? I’m not a fan of elastic in my underwear because it feels too restrictive, but I need to make my very own underwear. This is the place knit bands come into play for me. I’m going to point out you how to swap knitted elastic webbing for a knit band to complete your underwear!
– Tape measure
– Extra paper
The way to Draft and Sew a Knit Band
Let’s do this.
Ensure your fabric meets the stretch requirements stated within the pattern you’re utilizing. I’m making the Sophie Hines Median Knickers sample, and it requires 50%-75% stretch.
If you’re using a Seamwork pattern, it includes a stretch information to help you see if the fabric you need to use has sufficient stretch in it. If you beloved this article and you simply would like to obtain more info about elastic band for Sale i implore you to visit our web site. Listed below are some Seamwork patterns you can use:
– The Geneva panties are a traditional choice, particularly if you want to use stretch lace.
– The Kaye shorts are excellent for biker-brief fashion underwear.
– The Dana underwear would work properly with a knit band instead of elastic.
– The brand new (and free!) Flo interval underwear. You can also make these with out the absorbent fabric if you wish to make a comfy pair of everyday underwear.
Cut your sample out and sew collectively all the fundamental items. Here is my constructed garment apart from the leg holes and waist.
Measure the leg opening and waistline to help you decide how long your knit bands should be. My leg holes turned out to be 27 1/2 inches, and my waist is 34 1/2 inches. Next, I should do some math.
Ugh, math!? I know-it’s not my favorite, but we obtained this!
You want some math because if you minimize the knit band the identical size as the leg hole or waistline, it won’t have the stretch to imitate the elastic end. You need to search out the right amount of damaging ease for your knit band to stay in place and fit securely-but comfortably-to your physique.
I consulted with Wallis, our patternmaker-and the queen of knits-here at Seamwork, and she advised me to comply with a easy equation when making knit bands for closures. Make the knit band 90% of the entire circumference of the opening.
I would like to emphasise that 90% is a suggestion and a very good place to begin! Depending on your fabric’s recovery, it’s possible you’ll have to do some testing to get the appropriate circumference. You’ll be able to always baste your band to your underwear to check the fit first.
So, since my leg hole is 27 1/2 inches, my equation is: 27.5 x .9 = 24.75. I cut my leg bands at 24 3/4 inches.
My waist measured 34 1/2 inches, my equation is: 34.5 x .9 = 31. I minimize my waistband at 31 inches.
I want my bands to be a bit wider, so I lower them 2 inches large, jacquard elastic band however you may make them a bit narrower or wider. Try not to go beneath 1 1/2 inches or over 2 1/2 inches. For those who cut your bands too narrow, they may need some more bulk on the seam allowance. Should you reduce them too huge, you could have issues fitting your gusset.
Sew the two brief ends of your knit band collectively. Press the seam to at least one side. Helpful hint: If you’re using a serger, use only one needle to chop down on bulk when serging.
Press the band in half lengthwise.
With flawed sides collectively, baste the raw edge.
With right sides collectively, pin the knit band evenly alongside the leg hole. You’ll have to stretch the knit band as you go.
A trick to evenly pinning the band is to mark your band in quarters. Then, mark your leghole and waistline in quarters. Stretch to match the quarter markings and pin in place, evenly distributing the band.
Using a serger or a zigzag stitch, sew the knit band to the underwear at 3/8 inch. Stretch the knit band as you go to ease it in. You may see this in action on this video tutorial for adding a knit band on our YouTube channel.
Press the seam allowance in the direction of the underwear and topstitch with a slender zigzag to hold the seam allowance in place.
Now repeat that very same course of on your different leg gap and waistband and marvel on the no-elastic undies you just made! Great job!
Taylor has a watch for design. Because the Product Manager for Seamwork, she needs to verify your online experiences are fun and pleasurable.